Hamentashen

March 20th, 2011  |  35 Comments

Craaaaack.

No, that wasn’t the sound of eggs cracking. That was my ankle giving out. A sprain.

I wish I could say it came from something cool, like a ski trip, but it came from the everyday act of walking to a bus stop. Apparently, putting one foot in front of the other has become too much of a challenge for me. All it took was one “off” step and now I’m sidelined for a month.

At times like these, I thank the powers that be that I no longer work in a restaurant kitchen. Boy, do they frown on calling in sick. Since the kitchen culture is all about being a badass, summoning your inner Navy Seal for every shift, and pushing through even the most overwhelming situations, if you call in sick, everyone treats you like you’ve kicked their dog. The only acceptable excuse is death. And even then, you better prove you are. (The other added incentive is that you typically don’t get paid if you don’t work your shift.)

Every single body is so heavily depended upon, one missing person puts the whole operation into a tailspin. We didn’t ever want anyone to do that to us, so we didn’t do it to them. Even if we were pulsating with 103 degree fever, we’d come in. I’ve seen people work with a cold. The flu. Big, seeping burn-boils all over their arms. Hangovers. Stitched up knife cuts on their hands. Lopped off fingers, courtesy of the meat slicer.

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Rick Rodgers: Interview With a Kitchen Pro

March 1st, 2011  |  11 Comments

Some of Rick’s books

As soon as I met Rick Rodgers, I bombarded him with questions. How could I not? Here I had one of the great baking and food writing minds in my midst, and doggone it, I had to know all about him. Over fancy tea and tiny cookies, no less.

Certainly, you remember this post I did on the Dobos Torte, for a Daring Bakers challenge? From this exquisite, authentically-Viennese pastry book? Yep, THAT Rick Rodgers. He wrote that one and an avalanche of others. The man knows his way around a coffee cake.

But let’s back up for a second. How is it that I was suddenly sitting around sipping tea with Rick Rodgers on a Sunday afternoon? It’s because of that dang Macaron primer. That thing gets around. Turns out, we have a mutual friend (Linda, I’m looking at you), and she dropped a copy in his inbox.

Next thing I know, Rick sent me a very nice email and fast foward to us sitting around munching biscuits, batting around industry gossip like a couple of Real Housewives. Rick was a wealth of info about what’s up in the professional food and publishing biz. I found myself completely riveted.

I thought you might be interested in Rick’s hard-won wisdom too. Rick was kind enough to answer all of my questions.

Tea and Questions with Rick Rodgers

How did you get your start in the food business?

I came from a family of many nationalities (Liechtenstein, Hawaii, Portugal, and Ireland), and each branch identified itself through cooking. I was exposed to great food early on. My Auntie Gisela’s Kipferln Viennese croissants come to mind, and the family still talks about Cousin Trudy’s chocolate cake.

My first job was at a “gourmet” deli in suburban San Francisco, and I already knew the names of most of the cheeses and cold cuts they were serving. I was fifteen, and I just kept working in restaurants through college.

When I moved to New York after graduating with a Theater BA from San Francisco State University, I got a restaurant management job at a terrific place in Manhattan, Teacher’s, which was next door to Zabar’s, where I learned even more about food. (We had a Thai chef, so I was eating Southeast Asian before it was popular.) That’s where I met a lot of the celebrities who gave me my start as a caterer. One thing led to another, and very soon I was cooking for the French Government on Fifth Avenue. I never performed on the stage again after I came to New York, although my theatrical background sure comes in handy when I am on TV or teaching my classes.


What major changes in the food business have you seen since you started?

The biggest change is food on TV. There used to be a very few PBS shows that made an impact, such as Julia Child and Martin Yan. Now every cable station has a cooking show…but it is hard to find a show that really teaches how to cook. Competition is not cooking.

And as you read this, you are experiencing another Big Change: blogging. Again, like TV, the quality varies and you can’t take everything at face value, because there is so much information out there.  I find that the group recipe sites are totally unreliable. But, if a person who stands behind his or her writing runs the site, your chances of getting good information and recipes are better.

When I started, you had to be a good cook period. Now, in addition to my cookbooks, I have to spend lots of time on my blog, not just writing, but testing recipes, taking photos, and more. I also have to read what other bloggers are writing about. This can take up a big part of your day with very little financial return.

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Rugelach perfection

February 28th, 2011  |  19 Comments

 

This recipe comes from the stunning Sarabeth’s Bakery: From My Hands to Yours by Sarabeth Levine (written with Rick Rodgers. Don’t miss the great interview with Rick here). You know something is really good when you wish you could have written it yourself.


The recipes are from Sarabeth Levine’s famed bakery on the Upper West Side and they are first rate. With photos so lush and tempting, it’s easy to get lost in the pages. I sat for a while, carefully flipping this coffee-table worthy volume, eating with my eyes. Ooo, just look at this Raspberries and Cream Charlotte.

 

Oooh, ooh, and these Black Beauty Cupcakes.

And the graphic designer in me couldn’t help but notice how elegantly it was all laid out. I have to say, this book deserves some shelf space in any cookbook collection.

Settling on the first recipe was dizzying, but in the end, my love of cream cheese dough won out. Rugelach it was. And this rendition was exactly what I hoped for — perfectly light and tender, with just a whisper of sweetness.

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Tootin’ some horns

February 21st, 2011  |  14 Comments

Here’s to you.

What a great day for singing your praises.

Baking is such a simple thing, and makes people so happy. One whiff of buttery, cinnamony  aroma wafting from the kitchen can melt away any foul disposition. And the act of stirring and rolling calms our own overstimulated minds. It’s one of those things that we can do together, virtually, and then share and inspire each other to try something new.

It’s also nice to see you step outside your comfort zone. Sometimes a moment of bravery can get you what you didn’t think you were capable of.

Right before Valentine’s, I got an email from Gina. She read this post and “went for it”.


Irina,

I just wanted to write and thank you for this blog! I myself am a print/web designer who has been looking at pastry work for a while as my next creative outlet. I’ve always enjoyed cooking, but found myself drawn to desserts for some reason. I seem to put a little extra love into any dessert I make and I just enjoy the process so much more than preparing savory foods. Eating it isn’t all that bad either. :)

So I took your advice last week and decided to ask a bakery if I could intern for a day. I chose Dulce Desserts because I created their website and knew that the owner might have a little more patience with me. She agreed to let me try it! I worked 10.5 hours on Thursday and left very tired, but happy as could be. Turns out she really needed my help that day, as they had an order for 2400 small bites, 800 of which were the mini cupcakes I made. I didn’t burn, spill or seriously screw anything up. It was a miracle. And everyone got to go home early and spend time with their families. So needless to say they loved me and begged me to come back at the next opportunity. I’ll be helping them out again the Sunday before Valentines Day when I’ll learn to bake a ton of cookies and pipe designs on them. Can’t wait!

So thanks again for the inspiration to try something new. I don’t know if I’ll be able to quit the day job just yet, but I’m definitely going to be practicing at the bakery and at home any chance I get.

Take care!
Gina

I know how scary it is to put yourself out there like that and yet the rewards can be huge. It IS possible to go after what you want and Gina is a perfect example that it can be done. Gina, you rock! I’m truly ecstatic for you!

So if you’ve been hesitating up to this point, just try. You may surprise yourself.

Speaking of success, check you guys out! You tried macarons and lived to post about it. We’ll never be macaron deprived again, *wink*.

image courtesy of Joyce at Teamo Passion Delights

1. Joyce at Teamo Passion Delights made peanut butter and jelly, and peach with coconut jam. Gorgeous!
2. Zo at Two Spoons did vanilla macarons with Salted Buttercream and Caramel filling. Perfection!
3. Jaqueline at Always Freyday went with the Classic Almond Version with Vanilla Buttercream. Lovely!

And here’s an email I got from Lisa. She had such good results, she kept going with flavors.

Loved the “Macaron Primer” and you’re right, I was finally able to ‘nail’ the perfect macaron everytime. I just stared at them in awe especially that foot – I made lemon, chocolate and pistachio. I’ve been trying to make them since 1997 and there was NOTHING out there to help me save an articleI stumbled upon from “GOURMET” magazine dated December 1992. I’ve read everything I could get me hands on and never really had consistant results until your primer. THANK YOU so much.

If  you tried macarons recently and want to tell us about it, please do! Add a comment, or link to your post.

I want to thank you guys again, because I learn so much from you, too. You’re always experimenting and coming up with ideas I wouldn’t have thought of. And when you ask questions, if I don’t know the answer, I’ll go look it up, and get instant learning gratification, too.

Ok, my turn!

Epicurious.com got wind of the macaron primer, and did a really nice post about it! Believe me when I tell you I did a little jig in my office cubicle when I saw it. I hope I don’t get big-headed now, heh heh. Thank you Lauren, at epicurious!


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Chasing a Coconut Cake

February 13th, 2011  |  36 Comments

Hundreds of you have now downloaded the macaron primer, and I thank you! The response has been nothing short of awesome. A few of you even dove right in and made some, and have reported that you’ve achieved the “impossible”. You slam-dunked that macaron!

The fact that you visit this blog and have enough faith to try out the recipes means everything to me. We’re becoming quite the baking circle, and I love hearing your thoughts and feedback. It makes baking and blogging so much more fun. I’m honored that you’re baking with me.

If you still haven’t downloaded the macaron primer, make your way over to this post. It’s totally free!

Speaking of you guys, a few months ago, a reader named Jackie sent me an email looking for coconut cake. Here is a clip in her own words:

“I was looking at your coconut cookie recipe, and a coconut cake recipe popped in my head. I’m looking for a recipe that has a lot of coconut flavor.”

Hmmm. A coconutty coconut cake. Shouldn’t be so hard, right? Off I went, hunting for coconut cake recipes. I saw many different approaches to it. Some were mere butter cakes with plain frosting and grated coconut sprinkled on top. A ghost of a coconut cake, if you ask me, not worthy of the title.

Some were dense, like pound cakes, while others were light, like angel food cakes. Some had cream cheese frosting, while others were coated with meringue. Inexplicably, I spied versions with coconut flavors in either just the cake part or just the frosting part. That’s like half a handshake! It doesn’t make sense.

Why go subtle on coconut flavor? When have you ever thought, “My word, this is good, but wouldn’t it be better if I could hardly taste the coconut?”

I wanted balls-to-the-wall coconut. Clock-me-on-the-head coconut. Dropped-in-a-piña-colada coconut. This meant some form of coconut had to appear in every nook and cranny of the cake.

When I spotted Alton Brown’s version, I slammed a triumphant fist on the table. It looked just right. There was coconut extract, coconut milk, and coconut cream in the cake batter. It was a coconut steam bath. And it’s that little bitty teaspoon of extract that would lend a powerhouse of flavor. Extracts do wonders to perfume a cake through and through.

Only….only…he made all those things from scratch. The extract came from fresh coconut (that he cracked open, grated and soaked in liquor for days), and so did the coconut milk and cream. Ol’ Alton hoped you’d pre-plan this a week in advance, and then had a whole Sunday to spare.

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